Ch 3.

Round 1: Work 12 DC in the first chain from hook, sl st to join in the top of the first DC. (12)

2: Ch 2, 2 DC in each stitch around, sl st to join to the top of the first DC. (24)

3: Ch 2, *DC in the next stitch, 2 DC in the next* around, sl st to join in the top of the first DC. (36)

4: Ch 2, *DC in the next 2 stitches, 2 DC in the next* around, sl st to join in the top of the first DC.(48)

Beginning at round 5, work in a spiral to form the body of the bag. Do not join at the end of the round. Mark the first stitch of each round with a safety pin or stitch marker to mark your spot.

5: Ch 3, *DC, ch 1* into each stitch.

6-23: DC, ch 1 in each ch 1 space. (48)

At the end of round 23, join with a slip stitch to the first DC of the previous round.
24: Ch 2, DC in each ch 1 space.

Round 25: Ch 2, DC between each DC of the previous round. (48)

The handles are worked in rows. The Ch 2 does count as a stitch here. Work between stitches, but you could work in the stitches, too.

Row 1: Ch 2, DC in the next 9 stitches. (10)

2: Ch 2, turn, DC decrease in the next two stitches, DC in the next 5, DC decrease in the last two stitches. (8)

3: Ch 2, turn, DC decrease in the next two stitches, DC in the next 3, DC decrease in the last two stitches. (6)
Rows 4-15: Ch 2, turn, DC in the next 5 stitches. (6)

Stop here or continue to make the handle longer if desired. Keep in mind that the yarn will stretch over time.

Cut the yarn and weave ends in with the tapestry needle. Fold the bag in half to determine where to start the other side of the handle and work the handle on the other side of the bag.

Single crochet the two sides of the handle together on the wrong side. Tie off the yarn and weave in the ends with a yarn needle.